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From Argentina and Chile, Eternal Hope

March 5, 2003
By FRANK J. PRIAL

ONE of the more intriguing wine world developments in the
last few years has been the emergence of Argentina as an
important player among the Southern Hemisphere's wine
producing nations. Again.

Every decade, it seems, Argentina's wine industry announces
that it has arrived. Advertisements appear, publicity
campaigns are started, tastings are held and the wines are
solemnly appraised. Naturally, they're compared with what's
being made across the Andes in Chile. And then - nothing.

Yet hope always rises that this time will be different. And
maybe this time will be, despite the country's unfathomable
economy and dysfunctional governments. After sampling 28
red wines, 15 from Argentina, 13 from Chile, and almost all
made from Bordeaux grapes, the Dining section's tasting
panel was surprised and pleased by the quality of the
wines. While a Chilean wine was judged the best of the
tasting - and even scored four stars from one panelist -
the top bottles were evenly divided between Argentina and
Chile, leaving no doubt after the tasting that both
countries have the potential to become important sources of
fine wine.

The panel consisted of three regulars - Amanda Hesser, Eric
Asimov and me - and a guest, José Prado, the maître d'hôtel
and sommelier at Patria, a New York restaurant. Mr. Prado
said that at one time, Argentina made wine only for its own
consumption. "Once it was quantity only," he added. "Now
it's quality. It's funny because even with the bad economy,
investments in the wine industry still seem to grow."

For the most part, the panelists agreed that the wines at
our tasting were, in Mr. Asimov's words, "well-made wines
with not a lot of idiosyncrasy."

"They were easy-drinking wines," he added. Ms. Hesser
called them "perfectly O.K. wines with not a lot of
personality." I saw them as commercial wines, with not a
lot of complexity but few faults and totally acceptable for
everyday drinking. But a few did stand out.

The wines, from the 1999, 2000 and 2001 vintages, with one
1997 thrown in, included cabernet sauvignons, merlots,
malbecs, blends and even one pinot noir. They ranged in
price from $7 to $70, with an average price of just under
$17 a bottle. Twenty-one were $20 or less. Normally, we
choose the top 10 wines to highlight here. This time we
included two additional wines because of tie scores.

The highest rated wine, with 3 1/2 stars, was the 1999
Montes Alpha "M" La Finca Estate from Chile. At $70, it was
easily the most expensive in the group. Quality and price
do match up from time to time. Mr. Prado gave this wine the
ultimate accolade: four stars. He once had the Alpha "M" at
his bar at Patria: it was $25 a glass, and quickly sold
out.

It would not be an overstatement to note that the Montes
Alpha "M" clearly stood out. To me, it resembled some of
the intense, superripe cult wines of the Napa Valley. Mr.
Prado liked the "deep, dark flavors of fruit and chocolate"
but felt the wine needed time to develop. Ms. Hesser found
it less intense than the rest of us.

Three wines won three-star ratings: a 2000 Navarro Correas
cabernet sauvignon from Argentina ($12), a 1999 Caliterra
Arboleda cabernet sauvignon from Chile ($16) and a 2000
Casa Lapostolle merlot, Cuvée Alexandre, also from Chile
($20).

Surprisingly, none of the Argentine wines in the top group
was a malbec, and malbec is Argentina's favorite noble
grape. There were four Rothschild wines in the tasting,
three of them from Chile: two from Los Vascos, in which the
Domaines Barons Rothschild (Château Lafite-Rothschild) has
an interest, and a 2001 Escudo Rojo ($12), Baron Philippe
de Rothschild, in which the Rothschilds of Château
Mouton-Rothschild are involved; it made our list of top
wines with two and a half stars. Escudo Rojo translates to
red shield, and red shield in German is Rothschild.

A 2000 Caro ($35), from Argentina, which has the Domaines
Barons Rothschild and Nicolas Catena as its owners, also
scored two and a half stars. The 2000 Navarro Correas, a
$12 bargain, compared favorably with the $70 Montes and was
our best value. Everyone agreed on its power and balance,
although Mr. Prado found it a bit simple.

It appeared to me that the Argentine wines in this group
are evidence that the Argentine winemakers have studied the
market carefully. And they now are ready to profit from
what they have learned, making wines with relatively softer
tannins for a wider appeal.

At the same time it was heartening to see a Chilean wine at
the top of the list. To a large extent, what Chile promised
20 years ago has never been fully realized. Even well-known
houses turned out vintage after vintage of banal commercial
wines. The Montes Alpha showed what Chile is capable of.
The Caliterra, the Casa Lapostolle and the Escudo Rojo
showed that the lower-priced wines have considerable
potential as well. Maybe this time around, Argentinian and
Chilean wines will fulfill their promise.

Tasting Report: Reds With Power, but Will the Glory Follow?

Montes Alpha "M" La Finca Estate Chile 1999
$70
*** 1/2
A wine of tremendous potential, thick and deep
like a cult cabernet, Frank J. Prial said. José Prado found
it exceptional, with deep, dark flavors of fruit and
chocolate, but thinks it needs time to develop. Amanda
Hesser liked the fruitiness; Eric Asimov was struck by the
richness of the fruit.

BEST VALUE:
Navarro Correas Cabernet Sauvignon Argentina 2000
$12
***

A California-style wine, Asimov said, fleshy, full and
open. Prial called it powerful yet balanced, with length
and depth. Hesser found bright strawberry flavors, but
Prado felt it was too simple.

Caliterra Arboleda Cabernet Sauvignon Chile 1999
$16
***

Exciting, complex and unusual, Hesser said, with unexpected
tropical accents. Prado called it nicely made and earthy,
and Prial felt it was just right for immediate drinking.
Asimov found it beefy and a touch sweet.

Casa Lapostolle Merlot Cuvée Alexandre Chile 2000
$20
***

Dark, creamy, balanced, Prado said; Hesser called it
wonderfully fragrant. Prial liked the body and intensity,
finding it elegant rather than rustic. Asimov was less
enamored, calling it thick, rich and very herbaceous.

Crios de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon Argentina 2000

$15
** 1/2
Asimov loved the intense cabernet aroma. Prial likened it
to a Pomerol. Prado liked its intensity, but Hesser found a
candied nose.

Baron Philippe de Rothschild Escudo Rojo Maipo, Chile 2001

$12
** 1/2
Prial found sophistication. Prado liked its earthiness and
Hesser its vibrance and freshness. Asimov called it young
with plenty of fruit.

Caro Mendoza, Argentina 2000
$35
** 1/2
Prado found earthiness and a touch of spice. Prial
called it a good California-style wine. Asimov agreed,
calling it an appealing fruit-and-oak cocktail. Hesser
termed it a well-made bore.

Concha y Toro Merlot Casillero del Diablo Chile 2001
$10

** 1/2
Rich, elegant wine, Prial pronounced. Clean and fruity,
Prado said. Hesser called it amiable. Asimov was put off by
the bell pepper flavors.

Gusto Vita Argentina 1999
$30
**
A gutsy wine, Hesser said. Prial called it soft and
drinkable, but with complexity. Dark and creamy, Prado
said, and Asimov called it pleasing.

Norton Merlot Argentina 1999
$8
**
Young and fruity,
Prado said; Hesser called it lively and well made. Asimov
felt the fruitiness was overpowered by oakiness, and Prial
found it too sweet.

Veramonte Primus Alto de Casablanca Chile 1999
$19
**

Fruity and agreeable, Asimov said. Good nose, said Prial,
with depth. Hesser found it likable; Prado called it
aggressive but with potential.

Chandon Terrazas de los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva
Perdriel Terraces, Mendoza, Argentina 2000
$19
**
Rich and harmonious, Prial said, and Prado called it well
balanced. Asimov liked the cabernet flavor but found it
very sweet; Hesser termed it generic.